Ancient Mono Lake covers more than 65 miles and is over a million years old, making it one of the oldest lakes in North America. Mono Lake has no outlet, so water leaves only through evaporation, causing the lake to be 2.5 times saltier and 80 times as alkaline as the ocean. In 1941 Los Angeles began diverting water from the streams that feed the lake, causing lake levels to drop precipitously. Conservation efforts and litigation to reduce water exports in the last two decades have succeeded and today the lake has come back from its historic low, although prolonged drought continues to keep lake levels down and reinforces the need for water conservation throughout the state.
There is a lot to explore here that is easily accessible by car from Mammoth within 45 minutes to an hour of driving. You may choose to spend an entire day visiting various sites around the lake, or combine a shorter visit to the lake with a trip to the ghost town of Bodie or the eastern entrance area of Yosemite National Park.
South Tufa
If you only have time to make one stop at Mono Lake, visit the South Tufa State Natural Reserve. From Mammoth Lakes, take Highway 395 25 miles north to Route 120 east. Continue 5 miles and follow signs for the South Tufa. Park in the large lot and pay the small fee of $3 per person for adults over 16 or follow the directions for displaying your federal lands pass if you have one. Bring water and sun protection because there is little to no shade here.
Take the easy 1-mile, self-guided nature trail and be sure to read the interpretive signage to fully understand the history of the lake and importance of its ecosystems. You’ll see the tufa formations that are a result of freshwater springs bubbling up through the alkaline lake water. Calcium from the freshwater combines with carbonates from the lake water to make the limestone formations. At the water’s edge, huge numbers of alkali flies swarm harmlessly around your ankles and you may also see tiny brine shrimp swimming in the water. Both of these species play a crucial role in the huge bird migrations for which the lake is known. Free, hour-long guided walks take place at 10:00am, 1:00pm, and 6:00pm daily through the summer months. Guided canoe tours are also available on summer weekends through the Mono Lake Committee for $25.00 per person. No experience is necessary, but everyone must be over the age of 4 and reservations are required.
If you have more time, you may also wish to visit Navy Beach, the Old Marina, County Park, or Panum Crater. There is also a beautiful overlook on the left-hand side of Highway 395 as you drive north toward Bridgeport that’s a great place to catch the colors of the lake at sunset.
Visitor Centers
There are two excellent Visitor Centers located in Lee Vining whose friendly staffs can provide information about the area, current conditions, and programs and things to do during your visit. On the east side of Highway 395, the Mono Basin Scenic Visitor Center is a regional visitor center managed by the United States Forest Service in partnership with the National Park Service and Eastern Sierra Interpretive Association and open Thursday through Monday from 9:00am-4:30pm from April through November. Phone 760-647-6595. Be sure to check out the excellent 20-minute film Ice and Fire: A Portrait of the Mono Basin for a brief but comprehensive overview of the area.
In the center of town on the west side of Highway 395, the Mono Lake Committee operates their Information Center and Bookstore from 8:00am to 5:00pm daily, phone 760-647-6595. The Committee formed in 1978 as a non-profit citizens’ group dedicated to protecting and restoring Mono Lake. Here you can view the 27-minute film The Mono Lake Story and get information about the lake and its history and become involved in current conservation efforts. My daughter especially likes viewing the small tank of brine shrimp here.
Lee Vining
The small town of Lee Vining offers plenty of shops, restaurants, and services as well as stunning views of the lake. The Mono Basin Historical Society operates a small history museum on Mattly Avenue. Call 760-647-6461 for hours and information. Young kids will get a kick out of the Upside-Down House and can also enjoy the playground at Gus Hess Park next door. It’s a perfect place to unwind with an ice cream from Mono Cone at the end of your day!
Have you had the opportunity to be inspired by ancient trees or marveled at the Mono tufa? Did something you explored while traveling prompt your kids to make further inquiries, request another trip, or make lifestyle changes? Please share--I’d love to hear all about it!